Neurotoxins have been a cornerstone of aesthetic medicine for decades, but the category is entering a new phase. New formulations are currently in development, and doctors are beginning to think about toxins as part of a larger conversation about wellness and longevity.
On a recent episode of The Beauty Authority, NewBeauty’s Director of Aesthetic Content Tatiana Bido spoke with Vancouver, BC ophthalmologist and aesthetic expert Jean Carruthers, MD, the innovator whose work helped lead to the discovery of Botox Cosmetic. Often called the “Godmother of Botox,” Dr. Carruthers shared what patients should know as the next generation of wrinkle relaxers begins to emerge—and why the science behind them continues to evolve.
More Toxins Coming
For many years patients had only a few toxin options available. That landscape is beginning to change as new products enter development and approval pipelines. “I think people need to know what brand, if you will, of botulinum toxin they are receiving,” Dr. Carruthers says. “Is it an A, is it an E and there is also a B that is out there because they are quite different in how they work.”
Most toxins used today are type A and typically last several months. “The A neuromodulators largely last between three to six months,” she explains. “The B lasts probably six weeks and the E lasts probably two weeks.”
A shorter acting toxin might sound surprising, but it could give patients flexibility. “If you were not sure that you wanted to have a treatment that might last three to six months, maybe you would use the E as an introductory treatment because it is only going to last two weeks,” she says.
The Mood Connection
Another area of research looks beyond wrinkle reduction. Studies have explored whether relaxing the muscles involved in frowning may also influence mood.
Dr. Carruthers points to research led by Greenbelt, MD dermatologist Eric Finzi, MD. “He treated a number of women who were depressed and did the scientific evaluations of their mood before treatment and then after the Botox was working,” she says. “Nine out of ten of the women had a dramatic improvement in their mood.”
Researchers are still studying the exact mechanism, but the idea reflects a broader shift in aesthetics. “I think that is the next stage with neuromodulators as part of 360-degree wellness,” she says.
The Next Wave of Aesthetics
Beyond toxins themselves, Dr. Carruthers says regenerative medicine is one of the most exciting areas in aesthetics. “There is a company in Toronto called Acorn and they actually produce stem cells from your very own hair,” she says. “They grow them in tissue culture and produce your own secretomes which can stimulate hair growth and rejuvenate the skin.”
She also points to new technologies that stimulate collagen and elastin as part of a larger shift toward healthier skin. “I think there are a lot of new products that stimulate collagen and elastin,” she says. “We must not forget elastin because that is what gives us youthful skin.”
Dr. Carruthers believes aesthetics is also moving away from overly dramatic results. “There has been such a spate of overdone injections,” she says. “And I think the aesthetic world was saying that is just not a natural look.”
Instead, many patients want subtle improvements that help them look like a refreshed version of themselves. For Dr. Carruthers, the future of the field should continue to be guided by science. “I would love to see that science is still respected as the most believable way that you can evaluate new treatments,” she says.
As new neurotoxins enter the market and regenerative treatments evolve, that science-driven approach may ultimately shape what comes next in aesthetic medicine.
