If topical vitamin C has always left your skin stinging or red, Éminence Organic Skin Care’s new Vitamin C+ Ultra Collection was made with you in mind. The line is built on 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid, a stable, water- and oil-soluble form of vitamin C. The brand says it delivers the ingredient’s brightening and firming benefits with less potential for irritation.
“What excites me most about this type of vitamin C (3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid) is that it finally addresses one of the biggest challenges the skin care industry has faced for years—stability,” says Brian Goodwin, international educator at Éminence Organic Skin Care. “Traditional vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) is highly effective, but it’s notoriously difficult to keep stable and active once it’s formulated.”
Goodwin also says the dual solubility “improves its ability to penetrate multiple layers of the skin,” and that this form “can maintain its potency over time and deliver its full antioxidant benefits with less potential for irritation.”
That can be especially important for sensitive skin. “Many products formulated with traditional vitamin C rely on acidic forms that require a low pH to remain effective,” Goodwin explains. “While those formulations can deliver results, they may also cause stinging, redness, or irritation, particularly for people with sensitive or compromised skin barriers.” He adds that instability can compound the problem: “As some forms of vitamin C degrade, their effectiveness can diminish, which sometimes prompts brands to formulate at higher concentrations in an effort to achieve results. That can further increase the likelihood of irritation.”
The collection includes two products. The Vitamin C+ Serum ($148) pairs the stabilized vitamin C with glutathione, mulberry and antioxidant-rich cloudberry. It’s formulated to defend against the environmental stressors that lead to a visible loss of firmness and elasticity. The brand says it delivers instant luminosity and, over time, softens the look of dark spots and fine lines. The Vitamin C+ Eye Cream ($102) combines the same vitamin C with yerba mate and cloudberry to target dark circles, wrinkles and sagging. It comes with a cooling metal applicator that helps depuff and soothe on contact.
As expected, Goodwin says the formulas were designed with vitamin C skeptics in mind. “Many people with sensitive skin assume vitamin C isn’t for them because they’ve had negative experiences with certain formulas in the past,” he says. “The stabilized form of 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid helps minimize the irritation concerns commonly associated with less stable forms, while antioxidant-rich cloudberry and other soothing botanicals help support the skin.” He has used both products on many clients, “including those who previously experienced sensitivities with other vitamin C products. The feedback has been overwhelmingly positive.”
Goodwin recommends using both products in the morning. “After cleansing, apply the Vitamin C+ Serum to help defend the skin against environmental stressors while supporting a brighter, more radiant-looking complexion throughout the day. Follow with your moisturizer and always finish with SPF during the daytime.” Apply the eye cream each morning as well. The brand reports early praise from professional makeup artists, who say it “layers beautifully under makeup.”
His sage advice: Stay consistent. “Vitamin C can deliver immediate radiance, but regular use supports longer-term improvements in the appearance of firmness, dark spots and fine lines.”
