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There\u2019s a moment in nearly every facial when the warm towels and dreamy massage give way to something a little less zen: extractions. For some of us, it\u2019s the entire reason we booked the appointment (hello, stubborn nose blackheads). For others, it\u2019s the part we\u2019d happily skip. So who actually needs them, what should they feel like, and how do you know your aesthetician is doing them right? We asked two pros who spend their days clearing pores to break it all down.<\/p>\n
In simple terms, extractions involve removing the buildup of oil, dead skin cells and other debris trapped inside pores. They\u2019re commonly performed during facials to address blackheads, whiteheads and certain types of superficial breakouts, but the process requires more than just squeezing a clogged pore.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n
\u201cExtractions are particularly effective for blackheads, whiteheads and certain superficial pustules,\u201d says licensed aesthetician Lexie Bennett, community lead at milk + honey spa, medspa and salon. \u201cDeep cystic or nodular acne generally isn\u2019t appropriate for traditional facial extractions and is better addressed by a dermatologist.\u201d <\/p>\n
New York\u2013based licensed aesthetician Samantha Susca, founder of Refinery4, agrees: \u201cBlackheads and non-inflamed whiteheads are usually the most suitable forms of congestion for extractions. These can be done manually for best results, occasionally using a lancet. Deeper bumps, known as closed comedones, are entirely different in nature, and only with extreme precision and experience, should be extracted with a disposable lancet only. The most important discernment is between congestion that can be safely released and a lesion that should be left undisturbed and pretreated with topicals before extractions can be considered.\u201d<\/p>\n
If you have persistent blackheads, clogged pores or small, superficial blemishes, extractions may be a worthwhile addition to your facial. Both aestheticians say that some degree of congestion is common, but that doesn\u2019t mean every pore needs to be cleared at every appointment.<\/p>\n
\u201cI can always find something worth extracting on every face I work with, so I would say extractions are for everyone, but the clients who tend to see the greatest improvements are those dealing with blackheads, clogged pores, closed comedones and small pustules,\u201d says Bennett.<\/p>\n
Susca is a big believer, too. \u201cExtractions are the heart of most facials,\u201d she says. \u201cAs an extraction specialist, I firmly believe that without clearing the pores, products cannot effectively do their job, and the skin cannot maintain and balance itself.\u201d <\/p>\n
And the payoff goes beyond a smoother T-zone. \u201cMost skin types have a degree of congestion that even a gentle clearing can improve,\u201d Susca adds. \u201cThis will lead to a decrease in bacteria and balanced sebaceous activity, resulting in a calmer and clearer complexion with a stronger microbiome long-term.\u201d<\/p>\n
But, that doesn\u2019t mean every facial should automatically include extractions. \u201cI look at congestion as an individual concern, rather than something that automatically needs to be addressed during every facial,\u201d says Susca.<\/p>\n
Both experts agree that the state of your skin on the day of your appointment matters more than your skin type. \u201cIt\u2019s less about a particular skin type and more about the condition of the skin,\u201d says Bennett. \u201cNot every blemish is ready to be extracted, though. Knowing when to leave something alone is just as important as knowing how to remove it. I tend to be more conservative with inflamed, compromised, irritated or broken skin, and deep, painful cystic breakouts. In those cases, calming inflammation and supporting the skin barrier should take priority.\u201d<\/p>\n
Susca takes a similar approach. \u201cWhen I\u2019m working with someone who is experiencing heightened sensitivity, active inflammation or a compromised barrier, I\u2019m far more selective. I believe the most effective treatments begin with understanding what the skin can comfortably tolerate, not simply what we can remove from it.\u201d<\/p>\n
\u201cProper extractions begin well before any pressure is applied,\u201d says Bennett. \u201cFirst, we prepare and soften the skin, often using steam, a specialized solution or a combination of both. This helps loosen the buildup of oil, dead skin and other debris so congestion can be removed more easily. From there, we use controlled pressure and specialized tools to gently release the material obstructing the follicle.\u201d<\/p>\n
Susca also uses diamond microdermabrasion before extractions to remove the surface layer of keratinized buildup. \u201cFrom there, I work selectively, primarily using gloves and just my own fingertips, which allows me to feel and regulate the pressure I\u2019m applying.\u201d<\/p>\n
Bennett says she loves using an ultrasonic skin spatula for loosening surface congestion and addressing blackheads, and she reaches for a Schamberg extractor for more stubborn comedones. \u201cAnd sometimes, gloved fingers and controlled manual pressure are the best tools.\u201d<\/p>\n
The experts differ on their preferred tools, with Susca favoring manual extractions. \u201cI also never ever use a loop extractor tool, as I find those to be extremely damaging to the skin, ineffective for deep pore clearing, and difficult to keep sterile. They\u2019re not necessary when proper manual technique is used.\u201d<\/p>\n
Once the extractions are done, the facial shifts gears. \u201cI cleanse and treat the area with products appropriate for the client\u2019s skin, focusing on calming inflammation and supporting recovery,\u201d says Bennett. \u201cThen we can transition into the more restorative, relaxing portion of the facial.\u201d<\/p>\n
It all comes down to restraint. \u201cA good extraction is precise and causes as little trauma as possible. The goal is to clear the congestion without compromising the integrity of the skin,\u201d says Bennett. \u201cA bad extraction can leave behind torn skin, significant redness, bruising or more inflammation than was there to begin with. Knowing when to stop is part of being good at extractions. If something isn\u2019t releasing with the appropriate amount of skin prep and pressure, it may simply not be ready.\u201d<\/p>\n
There\u2019s also a certain discipline in knowing when to leave something alone. \u201cI consider that one of the most important qualities of an experienced aesthetician,\u201d says Susca. \u201cA successful extraction should require very little manipulation. When the skin has been properly prepared and the congestion is ready to release, the process should be relatively effortless, making it easier to clear large areas of skin at once. The moment excessive force becomes necessary, the treatment is no longer serving the skin. Repeated squeezing in the same area to release a stubborn pore can cause damage, prolong inflammation and potentially leave behind marks that are far more difficult to address than the original congestion.\u201d<\/p>\n
Temporary redness and sensitivity can be normal side effects after extractions. \u201cA few new whiteheads that reach the surface is common and expected after extractions as well,\u201d says Susca. \u201cOil is the food source for bacteria in the skin, and when that oil is properly and evenly extracted, that bacteria will die off. As the subcutaneous bacteria dies off, redness can linger and some whiteheads may appear. This can last anywhere between a few hours to a few days, keeping in mind that sensitive skin may take a little longer.\u201d<\/p>\n
Scarring, broken capillaries and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation are potential risks of extractions, so here\u2019s what to look for to make sure your provider is acting responsibly. \u201cMy first rule is always gloves,\u201d says Bennett. \u201cProper sanitation and skin preparation are nonnegotiable. I also encourage clients to ask questions. Don\u2019t be afraid to ask your aesthetician how they\u2019re preparing your skin for extractions or why they\u2019re choosing to extract a particular blemish. A knowledgeable professional should be able to walk you through their process.\u201d<\/p>\n
The big red flag? Pain and pressure that feel like too much. \u201cSome pressure is expected, but sharp pain, aggressive squeezing or prolonged manipulation in one area as should never be necessary,\u201d says Susca. Bennett agrees: \u201cExtractions shouldn\u2019t feel aggressive, and repeated forceful pressure is a red flag. Some temporary redness is expected, but significant bruising, broken skin or prolonged inflammation should not be the norm.\u201d<\/p>\n
And don\u2019t skip the pre-facial chat. \u201cI also think that thoughtful consultation is essential,\u201d says Susca. \u201cSkin that is reactive or prone to hyperpigmentation requires extra consideration, and recent use of exfoliating acids, retinoids or other sensitizing treatments should always be discussed. The skin can respond in different ways, and having a clear expectation and access to your provider in the subsequent days is just as important as the treatment itself.\u201d<\/p>\n
It depends on your skin. \u201cThere’s no universal schedule for professional extractions,\u201d says Susca. \u201cSomeone with persistent congestion may benefit from extractions every four to six weeks. Another person may need them only seasonally.\u201d Bennett generally recommends starting with a professional facial about once a month for someone dealing with persistent congestion. \u201cWith consistent home care and regular professional treatments, many clients can eventually stretch their appointments to every other month or even seasonally.\u201d<\/p>\n
After your appointment, keep items that touch your face, including pillowcases, makeup brushes and eyeglasses, clean. Follow your provider\u2019s aftercare instructions, too.<\/p>\n
Both experts advise resisting the urge to pop your own pimples. \u201cAt-home extractions are a huge no for me, and that includes my own skin!\u201d says Bennett. \u201cWe\u2019re naturally more critical of our own faces, especially when we’re standing inches from a mirror, so it\u2019s easy to become fixated on a tiny blemish and end up doing far more damage than the original breakout ever would have caused. Without proper skin preparation, sanitation, lighting and technique, squeezing a blemish can increase the risk of infection, scarring and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.\u201d<\/p>\n
Susca agrees, noting that it\u2019s easy to misread what you\u2019re seeing on your skin at home. \u201cWhat looks like a clogged pore could be something else,\u201d she says. \u201cPressing on it without knowing what it really is or how to use proper technique for removal can impact a breakout deeper, cause inflammation in the surrounding pores, break small blood vessels or leave pigmentation behind.\u201d<\/p>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
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