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Retinol is dubbed the gold-standard ingredient for signs of aging, acne and more, but it\u2019s also known to be irritating. If that shiny new bottle of retinol backfires and wreaks havoc on your skin, it may be time to switch to another formula. Not all products work for everyone, and sometimes regular purging can turn into serious irritation overnight.<\/p>\n
\u201cRetinol is under the retinoids family, or derivatives of vitamin A that work on different layers of skin,\u201d says celebrity aesthetician Nerida Joy, Jennifer Garner\u2019s longtime facialist. \u201cRetinoids work to buffer the outer layer of skin while also building a really strong support system underneath with your collagen and elastin fibers.\u201d<\/p>\n<\/div>\n
\u201cWe know retinol is fabulous to keep our skin looking youthful and toned. However, some factors or formulations can definitely be too strong,\u201d Joy continues. \u201cCertain times or seasons of the year, the climate and environment we\u2019re in, and our own mental and physical health can all make a retinol \u2018too much.\u2019\u201d <\/p>\n
Here\u2019s how to tell if your retinol is working (or isn\u2019t), according to skin-care experts.<\/p>\n
\u201cA tightening feeling after washing your skin, and mild peeling, are clues that your retinol is working,\u201d says Germantown, TN dermatologist Purvisha Patel, MD. Not everyone experiences dryness or peeling, though, Dr. Patel notes. If you don\u2019t, it doesn\u2019t necessarily mean your retinol isn\u2019t working; it may simply need more time. New York dermatologist Carmen Castilla, MD adds, \u201cThe skin will be brighter in appearance overall \u2014more luminous. You should also notice an improved appearance of skin texture. It will be smoother in general, though this is a subtle change.\u201d<\/p>\n
Other visible improvements include the fading of dark spots or freckles. \u201cHowever, you need to use sunscreen in combination with your retinol or retinoid for this to happen,\u201d Dr. Castilla advises. If you\u2019ve ever looked at the label on a retinol product, you\u2019ve seen the \u201cwarning\u201d that it can make skin more sensitive to sun exposure. Protecting your skin from the sun is one thing, but you\u2019re also protecting your investment in retinol and its effects (UV damage causes wrinkles, and retinol reduces wrinkles). <\/p>\n
Dr. Patel says, \u201cRetinol exfoliates the skin to help boost collagen production, so if you notice a decrease in fine lines and plumper skin, your product is working.\u201d Joy adds that it\u2019s also a great product for reducing acne scarring, as it resurfaces the skin. However, Dr. Castilla explains that it\u2019s unlikely to noticeably improve deep-set wrinkles, and in-office treatments like fillers, peels and lasers are the best way to address them.<\/p>\n
For many people, purging is a common part of the retinol user experience. \u201cRetinol speeds up cellular turnover, which can cause congestion to come to the surface as the skin is adjusting,\u201d says Tammy Fender, holistic skin-care expert and founder of her eponymous skin-care brand. \u201cThis reaction is known as purging and can involve clogged pores and minor breakouts.\u201d It can last a couple of weeks (sometimes longer), but it doesn\u2019t mean you did anything wrong. However, Joy says the skin doesn\u2019t necessarily have to purge at all with the introduction of a retinol or retinoid. \u201cI don\u2019t believe you have to go through this stage to get the benefits of retinol use. If you prefer, just change up your product and go with something lighter and gentler.\u201d<\/p>\n
Retinol breaks down in sunlight and can increase sun sensitivity, so it\u2019s a nighttime-only ingredient. Apply a pea-size amount (more is not better) on clean, dry skin, waiting a few minutes after washing your face so your skin\u2019s pH can adjust. \u201cDon\u2019t go too strong too quickly,\u201d Joy says, advising people to be careful with prescription-strength products, especially beginners. \u201cStart slow with a lower concentration of retinol, like 0.1 or 0.3 percent, and use it two or three nights a week.\u201d <\/p>\n
The goal, according to Joy, is to work up to using it every night. \u201cAnd to be able to use it every night, you\u2019ll want to mix it with other things, like good moisturizers, or even a hydrating mask,\u201d she says. Most people can\u2019t just use retinol by itself and get dramatic results.<\/p>\n
Under your retinol\/moisturizer mix, Joy suggests layering another serum, like an antioxidant formula or one that supports the skin barrier. \u201cThe older you get, the more layering you have to do\u2014layer your serums; it\u2019s really important.\u201d<\/p>\n
Retinol can take eight to 12 weeks for full results to sink in, but the process typically happens in phases. \u201cThere\u2019s definitely an adjustment phase for a few weeks, which is when purging can occur,\u201d says Fender. By the end of that window, changes in appearance and texture should be noticeable. Between two and three months is when most clinical studies show measurable improvement in fine lines and skin smoothness, which result from the collagen boost.<\/p>\n
A retinol can fail to work for you in one of two ways: it\u2019s too strong for your skin, or it\u2019s not strong enough to make a difference.<\/p>\n
It\u2019s too strong.<\/strong> According to Joy, signs of overusing retinol or using a formula that\u2019s too strong include skin ruddiness, irritation, inflammation and thinning. \u201cIn some cases, overuse can even cause \u2018retinol burn,\u2019\u201d adds Fender. \u201cThis is when the reaction causes damage and skin becomes highly sensitive or extremely irritated. But what\u2019s not as easy to see is the long-term effects that overuse can have. And, in some rare cases, it can thin the skin and cause it to look more advanced in age.\u201d<\/p>\n Keep in mind that mild dryness and peeling in the first few weeks are normal. It\u2019s persistent redness, stinging or raw, sensitive skin that signals a problem.<\/p>\n It\u2019s not strong enough.<\/strong> If you\u2019ve used your retinol consistently for about three months and see no change in texture, tone or fine lines, the formula may be too weak or too heavily buffered to make a difference for your skin.<\/p>\n If you are experiencing side effects like irritation, ruddiness and\/or heavy flaking, the best solution is to first give your skin a break from the retinol. Nourish it with barrier-boosting ingredients like ceramides to restore it to optimal health. \u201cIt\u2019s important when using retinol-type formulas to give your skin a break in order to allow it to replenish,\u201d Fender says, recommending her soothing Plant Milk Serum ($135)\u00a0and calming\u00a0Intensive Repair Balm ($150). \u201cSkin needs downtime!\u201d<\/p>\n Then, when you return to using retinol, lighten up on the strength you\u2019re using and see if that helps. Over-the-counter retinol typically ranges from about 0.01 percent to 1 percent, so step down to a lower concentration than the one that irritated your skin. \u201cRetinoids are all members of the vitamin A family, and they all have different strengths and molecular weights,\u201d Joy explains. \u201cThe prescription-only Retin-A\u2014also known as retinoic acid\u2014is the most aggressive and will have a harsher effect on the skin. Retinyl esters are the least potent form of retinoids and considered quite gentle. This is because retinyl esters take three steps to convert into retinoic acid on the skin. Examples of retinyl esters include retinyl acetate, retinyl propionate and retinyl palmitate, and they are found in over-the-counter products.\u201d Retinol falls somewhere in between and takes two steps to convert to retinoic acid.<\/p>\n You can also switch to a retinol alternative. Dr. Patel recommends plant-based bakuchiol. \u201cIt is not as irritating as retinol in the cell turnover process, resulting in less redness, peeling and sun sensitivity,\u201d she explains. \u201cIt is better suited for sensitive skin, and it\u2019s a great ingredient in body products. I like Visha Skincare Top 2 Toe Body Wash ($25), which can be easily applied to the whole body without irritating the skin.\u201d<\/p>\n On the flip side, if you\u2019re not experiencing side effects or seeing results, consider increasing the strength of your retinol. Or try a serum instead of a cream. \u201cCreams typically include moisturizing ingredients that buffer the retinol a bit,\u201d says Joy.<\/p>\n<\/div>\nWhat to Do If Your Retinol Isn\u2019t Working<\/h2>\n